The Secret Country - Janet and Colin Bord
THE SECRET COUNTRY - JANET AND COLIN BORD
Published in 1976, this book looks at the folklore surrounding ancient sites in the British Isles. Here I was interested in recording all the mentions of Wales...
CHAPTER ONE - EARTH CURRENTS IN TRADITION AND THEORY
"Folk traditions are not conceieved in a vacuum, and if carefully considered they can, we believe, often be found to have a factual basis." Ideas discussed include ley lines, megalithic structures as carriers of power, their involvement with witchcraft and old traditions, etc, etc.
Some people are said to gotten shocks from stones. Eg. "John Williams, an experienced dowser from Abergavenny, has had similar experiences, in which he has been flung back from stones when placing his hands on them (for example, the Fish Stone near the Rvier Usk at Penmyarth - Powys: Brecknock - and one of the Harold stones at Trelleck, Gwent.) He has described the force involved as spiral-like, building up through the whole body and throwing the person touching it back from the stone."
Some were said to mark underground passages. Eg. "A passage is said to run several miles from Castell Coch (the Red Castle) by the River Taff to Cardiff Castle (South Glamorgan), and at the head of the passage in Castell Coch is a cavern containing an iron chest filled with treasure. This was said to belong to Ivor the Little, Lord of Morlais, whose stronghold the castle was in the twelfth century. He had three huge eagles chained to the chest to guard the treasure, and these fierce creatures have resisted all attempts to steal it."
While many folk traditions of buried treasure have been proven factually false, some did find validation. Eg. The ghost of a huge man dressed in gold was said to haunt a barrow called Bryn yr Ellyllon (Hill of the Goblins) at Mold. When the barrow was opened in 1833 a gold corselet or cape was found and is now at the British Museum. Other Welsh finds include a chest of gold in a cairn on Nerquis Mountain, Flintshire; gold chest at Cerrig y Drudion, Denbighshire; and three cauldrons of gold at Y Garn Coch near Ystradgynlais.
Discusses the folk tradition of standing stones representing petrified witches who overmilked cows. Eg. "In Wales, Y Fuwch Frech, the freckled cow, lived on Hiraethog Mountain near Cerrigydrudion. On being milked into a sieve by a witch, she drowned herself in Llyn Dau Ychen. A legend in the Welsh Iolo MS, with the title 'Y Fuwch Laethwen Lefrith' (The Milk-White Milch Cow), tells of another cow with bountiful supplies of milk, and she almost suffered the ultimate humility at the hands of the Welsh:
The milk-white milch cow gave enough of milk to every one who desired it; and however frequently milked, or by whatever number of persons, she was never found deficient. All persons who drank of her milk were healed of every illness; from being fools they became wise; and from being wicked, became happy. This cow went round the world and wherever she appeared, she filled with milk all the vessels that could be found, leaving calves behind her for all the wise and happy. It was from her that all the milch cows in the world were obtained. After traversing the island of Britain, for the benefit and blessing of country and kindred, she reached the Vale of Towy; where, tempted by her fine appearance and superior condition, the natives sought to kill and eat her; but just as they were proceeding to effect their purpose, she vanished from between their hands and was never seen again. A house still remains in the locality, called Y Fuwch Laethwen Lefrith."
CHAPTER TWO - STONES AND THEIR POWERS
Offerings were left at various stones, eg. "At midnight, when there was a full moon, maidens from the Swansea district used to leave cakes of barley-meal, honey, and milk on Arthur's Stone, which stands on Cefn-y-Bryn, Gower. They then crawled around the stone three times on hands and knees, hoping to see their sweethearts. If they appeared, their fidelity was proved. If not, then the girls knew that the boys did not intend to marry them."
Some stones were said to have healing powers, others helped with fertility. Some could be used for bad - eg. there was a cursing well at St. Elian, near Colwyn Bay, where stones marked with the initials of the victims [of a potential curse] were dropped into the water. Others for good - eg. at the underground dungeon at Oystermouth Castle, Gower, there was a large pillar called the Wishing Post. Young men and women who desired to find a sweetheart would walk around this stone nine times while making their wish, and would 'stick a pin in the pillar.' Still others could impact your mental wellbeing.
"There is a cromlech in Dyffryn woods (probably Tinkinswood chambered cairn) near St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) where it was considered unlucky to sleep on the 'three spirit nights' of May Day eve, St. John's eve (23 June), and Midwinter eve. Anyone ignoring this advice would be liable to die, go mad, or become a poet. The controlling spirits of this cromlech were thought to be those of the long-departed Druids, who would punish the wicked by beating them, and were particularly hard on drunkards.
One such who spent a night at this site said that they 'beat him first, and then whirled him up to the sky, from which he looked down and saw the moon and stars thousands of miles below him. The Druids held him suspended by his hair in the mid-heaven until the first peep of the day, and then let him drop down to the Dyffryn woods, where he was found in a great oak by farm labourers', according to the account in Folk-Lore and Folk-Stories of Wales by Marie Treveylan. It is interesting to note that this tale has echoes of some of the reported experiences of today's flying saucer contactees, who tell of flying around space and seeing the stars and the moon from the craft of the alien visitors.
Close by, near St. Lythans, the stones of St. Lythans chambered cairn were said to grant a whispered wish on Hallowe'en. Whether the wish must be for good or ill is not known, but the field was unprofitable and the local people said the land was cursed.
The moutain of Cader Idris in Gwynedd (Merionethshire) has a strange reputation. Somewhere on its summit is the rock seat of the giant Idris, and here too, anyone who stays the night will find death or madness, or become a genius. On the first night of a new year mysterious lights are said to be seen near the peak, and again this sounds similar to today's reports of flying saucers or UFOs.
A famous figure from Wales's past, half fact, half legend, is the great bard Taliesin. Tradition places his grave in the parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glen (Dyfed). The stone grave, known as Bedd Taliesin, is in the centre of a mound of earth surrounded by stone circles, and here too the tradition says that anyone who sleeps there for one night will become either a poet or an idiot."
CHAPTER THREE - 'A STRANGE AND MONSTROUS SERPENT...'
"Dragons or winged serpents were also a familiar sight in the woods around Penllyne Castle (South Glamorgan) in earlier days, according to nineteenth-century folklore. One old man remembered hearing in his boyhood that the winged serpents were very beautiful. They rested coiled up, and looked as if covered in jewels; some had sparkling crests. If disturbed, they glided to their hiding-places with outspread wings. They became extinct because they took poultry, and people killed them for it.
"An old woman related her memories of the winged serpents in Penmark Place (South Glamorgan), and they too were as notorious as foxes in the farmyards. Her grandfather had tried to kill one in the woods of Porthkerry Park; he and his companion were attacked when they wounded a winged serpent with gunshot, but after a fierce fight they killed it. She had seen its skin and feathers. Winged serpents were not peculiar to South Wales, stories about them being current in all the wilder parts of that country - Penmaenmawr, the Berwyns, Cader Idris, Plinlimmon, Radnor Forest, and Brecon Beacons."
Discussion of dragons being Medieval interpretation of UFOs. John de Hokelowe writing in 1405 about a sighting in Suffolk of a dragon that devoured many sheep. Baker's Chronicle (12th Century) talks of a 'fiery serpent' at Newcastle Emlyn in Dyfed. Some dragon killings are linked with ancient sites. Eg. Bedd yr Afanc (Afanc's Grave) near Brynberian, Dyfed, is said to mark where a dangerous monster was buried after being caught in a pool in the river.
CHAPTER FOUR - THE GIANT'S APRON AND THE DEVIL'S SPADE
The devil is said to have constructed Offa's Dyke, the earth bank and ditch which still runs most of the length of the Welsh / English border, though not precisely on the line of the present border. He completed this stupendous task in one night, using a plough pulled by a turkey and a gander.
Jack o' Kent, a Herefordshire giant, was playing peck and toss (pitch and toss) on the Sugar Loaf Mountain when he threw what become known as the Pecked Stone into a field at Trelleck (Gwent). This stone lay a short distance from three other tall menhirs (Harold's Stones) which were thrown by Jack at the same time and which still stand together in a field just outside the village.
"Another recurring theme is the pebble in the shoe, the pebble, however, being of huge proportions to our eyes. Arthur's Stone is a cromlech standing on Cefn Bryn common, Gower Peninsula (West Glamorgan), but to King Athur it was a pebble in his shoe, which irritated him when he was on his way to fight the Battle of Camlann. He threw it seven miles to its present position. Giantess Mol Walbee was not so strong, for when she found a stone in her shoe she only threw it three miles, into Llowes Churchyard (Powys). 'Mol Walbee's Stone' is in fact an early Christian wheel-cross."
Shovelful of earth theme. Eg. The most-quoted story tells how a Welsh giant was planning to dam the River Severn and flood Shrewsbury (Salop), and was on his way with a load of earth when he met a cobbler who thwarted his plan in the usual cunning wag. The soil the giant threw down became the Wrekin, and Welock Edge (or, in another version, Ercall Hill) was formed where he scraped his boots.
The story of Cnwn Coedfoel, a mound near Llandyssul (Dyfed). The devil was out to drown the people of Pentre-Cwrt by damming the River Teivy with earth, but as he was carrying his shovelful he met a cobbler at Llandyssul, two miles from Pentre-Cwrt, who showed him his large bundle of old shoes as evidence of the enormous distance to the river. This discouraged the Devil, who threw down his load. Other stories involve giantesses carrying things in their aprons, eg. the passage grave Barclodiad y Gawres on Anglesey.
People who turn into stones: Eg. winnowing: three stones formerly on Moelfre Hill, Dwygyfylchi, Gwynedd, representing three women dressed in red, white, and blue gowns - the stones were a dull red, white, and a slate colour - who worked on a Sunday morning despite the protestations of their neighbours. A man who stole the church bible (or bells in some versions) was turned to stone as he carried it away on his back, and he must stand there forever as the Robber's Stone (Carreg y Lleider) near Llandyfrydog on Anglesey.
The Bords ask if these stories could be folk memory of deliberate landscaping events, rather than the usual explanation of flooding and erosion.
CHAPTER FIVE - CHURCHES MOVED BY NIGHT
At Ysbyty Cyngyn near Aberystwyth (Dyfed) the church is in a circular churchyard, and several megaliths, probably the remains of a stone circle, can be seen in the wall surrounding it. The stones are too massive for it to be sensibly suggested that they were moved there from elsewhere when the churchyard wall was built. This is the only example we know of where a church definitely appears to have been built within a stone circle. It is interesting to note that when a cross-shaped building is added to a circular site, the resulting shape is that of the wheel-cross which is a sun symbol.
Another example of a pagan sacred site blended with a Christian church is also in Wales, at LlanfairPG (Anglesey) where a menhir was found beneath the puplit of the church.
Church siting traditions in Wales:
Dyfed: St David's church, Llanddewi Brefi (Cardigan), was to have been built in a field at Godregarth Farm, a mile away from the village, buy a 'Spirit' pulled down the day's work each night, and carried the stones to the spot where the church now stands.
Penbryn church (Cardigan) should have been built at Penlon Moch, near Sarnau, but the materials were removed 'by invisible hands' to the present church site. There is a smiliar tradition converning Bettws Ifan (Cardigan). The parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn (Llanfihangel church of Michael) is about a mile from the farmhour named Glanfread or Glanfread-fawr, which site was originally intended for the church. But each night the day's sowrk was destroyed, and a voice was heard saying 'Glanfread-fawr sy fod fan hyn, Llanfihangel yn Genau'r Glyn.' (Glanfread-fawr is to be herein, Llanfihangel at Genau'r Glyn.) So the church was built at Genau'r Glyn, and a farm at Glanfread-fawr.
The parish church at Llanddeusant (Carmarthen) was to have been built at Twynllanan in the centre of the parish, but by night the stones were removed to the church's present site. Work was slow at the building of Llanwinio church (Carmarthen), for each day's work 'fell down in the night'. The builder threw his hammer into the air (in exasperation, or divination?) and the church was built on the spot where it fell, without further hindrance.
A field called Parc y Fonwent was chosen as the site for Llangan church (Carmarthen), but the stones were carried by night to a new site, accompanied by a voice saying, 'Llangan, dyma'r fan' (Llangan, here is the spot).
The original site for Maros church (Carmarthen) was a field called Church Park near Pendine, not far west of where the church now stands. By night stones and mortar were removed to the new site by 'invisible spirits'. Also, at Llangeler (Carmarthen), each day's work was carried from the chosen site, at Parc-y-Bwci (Goblin's Park), to the site where the church was finally built.
Powys: The original piece of land chosen for the erection of Llanbister church (Radnor) was close to the spot where the church was actually built. A historian of the county said in 1859 that 'The tradition that a supernatural being carried away in the night whatever was built of the church during the day, is still kept alive, because the warden claims in annual rent of 2s 6d. for the vacant and unconsecrated site of the originally intended church.' Again we find factual confirmation of a folk tradition.
Clwyd: Wrexham church (Denbigh) was to have been built on low ground at Bryn-y-Hennon, but the work was disturbed by night, and a voice was heard saying, 'Bryn-y-Grog' (Hill of the Cross), so the church was built there instead. A hilltop site near an ancient spring had been chosen for Capel Garmon church (Denbigh), but it was moved downhill.
Corwen church (Merioneth) was repeatedly demolished during construction until the builders restarted work beside Carreg y Big yn y Fach Rewlyd (the Pointed Stone in Icy Nook). Work was started on a church between Cwynwyd and Corwen, where Cynwyd Bridge crosses the River Dee, But the stones were removed by the Devil each night. A wise man told the masons that they should build their church where a white stag would first be seen when they were out hunting. They did this, and Llangar church (Merioneth) or the Church of the White Stag (Llan-garw-gwyn) was built on the spot.
Gwynedd: The stones for Llanllechid church near Bangor were carried away from a field called Cae'r Capel.
CHAPTER SIX - RESTLESS STONES AND ANCIENT RITUALS
The Dancing Stones of Stackpole (Dyfed) are three standing stones about one mile apart - Sampson Cross, Harold's Stone, and another at Stackpole Warren. Sometimes they get together and go down to Saxon's (or Sais's) Ford to dance the hay (a country-dance), and any witnesses are assured of good luck. Similarly, on Midsummer Eve, the stones of St Lythans chambered cairn near St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) whirl around three times and curtsey.
There was once a rocking stone called Cryd Tudno (Tudno's Cradle) on Great Orme's Head (Gwynedd), and mothers who wanted to help their children learn to walk would every week get them to crawl three times around the stone. Also in Wales, girls would crawl three times around Arthur's Stone in Gower, in order to test their sweetheart's fidelity.
Two stones with unusual stories can be found about a mile from the Green Gorge on Penmaenmawr (Gwynedd). The story of the Deity Stone, which would bend its head and hit anyone blaspheming in its presence, is told here by Marie Trevelyan in Folk-Lore and Folk-Stories of Wales:
A man from South Wales played cards with some friends beside this stone on a Sunday, and when the men returned to the village with cuts about their heads, the people knew the Deity Stone had smitten them, though they would not admit having had punishment. A notorious blasphemer who came from Merionethshire laughed to scorn the story of this stone. One night he went to the Druids' Circle alone and at a very late hour, and shouted words of blasphemy so lound that his voice could be heard ringing down the Green Gorge. People shuddered as they heard him. The sounds ceased, and the listeners ran away in sheer fright. In the morning the blasphemer's corpse was found in a terribly battered condition at the base of the Deity Stone.
Opposite the Deity Stone is the Stone of Sacrifice, which has a depression on top large enough to hold a baby. It was believed that good luck could be obtained for any baby placed there for a few minutes before it was one month old.
Offerings of white or quartz stones were made at holy wells, such as Ffynnon Degla (Cwlyd) and Ffynnon Gwenfaen (Anglesey), and in both Wales and Scotland charms of quartz and rock crystals were used to give the water of healing wells a magical potency. Although this practice at first glance appears to be mere superstition, it could well be sould based. (eg. vibrations)
CHAPTER SEVEN - FAIRIES, WITCHES, GHOSTS AND UFOS
Fairies - not the pretty winged kind of today. Sometimes believed to be the remnants of an earlier race of beings, pushed to the edges by humanity. "Burial mounds and hillforts were not the only ancient sites frequented by the fairies; they were also seen at certain stones, for example the Pentre Ifan cromlech (Dyfed), where they looked like 'little children in clothes like soldiers' clothes and with red caps'. Another Welsh cromlech associated with fairies is near the hamlet of St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) and was called Castle Correg by the local children. Again in Wales, a stone at Cynwyl Gaio had a bad reputation and was known locally as the Goblin Stone. A young man who slept under it in the seventeenth century was pinched, poked, and tweaked by a number of goblins, who vanished at first light.
Other traditions associating fairies with ancient stones may have resulted from the psychic effects produced by the earth currents. A story from Wales tells of a shepherd boy, lost in the mountains, who was led to a certain menhir by a merry blue-eyed old man. The old man tapped three times on the stone and lifted it up, revealing steps lit by a blue-white light. Down they went, and came to a wooded, fertile country, with a beautiful palace. The shepherd boy began a marvellous life among the 'fair-folk', and eventually married one of them. Later, he decided to return to the upper world and took his wife with him. They lived well, for they were rich, and had a son they called Taliesin, who became a famous bard. This story may have been a remnant of an ancient bardic tale. The wooded fertile country, where life is joyous and riches abound, to which an ancient sacred stone is the doorway, may symbolise the fructifying powers of the earth current which can be tapped at the ancient stones.
The ghostly dog seen on the island of Anglesey by a clergyman took the form of a large greyhound. It jumped against him and threw him from his horse as he passed by an 'artifical circle in the ground' (presumably of stones, to judge by what occurs later) between Amlwch village and St Elian church. The same thing happened on a second night; on the third the priest saw that the 'spirit' was chained. On being questioned, the 'spirit' revealed that it could not rest because it had, when in the flesh (presumably in human not animal form!) hidden a silver groat belonging to the church under a stone. Following the 'spirit's' directions, the priest found the groat and paid it to the church, whereupon the 'spirit' was released.
The next story also comes from Wales, and we quote it direct from Folk-Lore of West and Mid-Wales by Jonathan Ceredig Davies:
As Mr. David Walter, of Pembrokeshire, a religious man, and far from fear and supersition, was travelling by himself through a field called the Cot Moor, where there are two stones set up called the Devil's Nags, which are said to be haunted, he was suddenly seized and thrown over a hedge. He went there another day, taking with him for protection a strong fighting mastiff dog. When he had come near the Devil's Nags there appeared in his path the apparition of a dog more terrible than any he had ever seen. In vain he tried to set his mastiff on: the huge beast crouched, frightened by his master's feet and refused to attack the spectre. Whereupon his master boldly stooped to pick up a stone thinking that would frighten the evil dog; but suddenly a circle of fire surrounded it, which lighting up the gloom, showed the white snip down to the dog's nose, and his grinning teeth, and white tail. He then knew it was one of the infernal dogs of hell.
CHAPTER EIGHT - THE FATE OF THE DESECRATORS
On Pentyrch, a hill above Llangybi, a large stone, immovable despite the concerted efforts of men and horses on many occasions, was moved at the touch of a little girl's hand. She found a hoard of coins beneth the stone, and at the time her family was desperately poor. It had long been rumoured that treasure was hidden there, but undeserving seekers had no luck finding it.
A heap of stones on the mountain Cefn Carn Cavall (or Cabal), near Builth (Powys), contains one magic stone which bears the footprint of King Arthur's dog Cabal, and on one who takes this stone away can keep it for longer than a day and night, because it returns to the heap. On the island of Anglesey, Maen Morddwyd, or the Thigh Stone, always returned the following night, however far away it was taken.
A cromlech was being dismantled in Parc-y-Bigwrn field near Llanboidy (Dyfed), and two men who were handling the stones 'became filled with awe' (could this be another way of saying that they sensed the power in the stones? It would seem that the current was very strong at this site, judging by what happened next). As six horses drew the stones away, 'the road was suddenly rent asunder in a supernatural manner'.
Another earth-shattering event took place in Wales when a stone was moved at Banwan Bryddin near Neath (West Glamorgan), where an inscribed stone pillar standing on a tumulus locally thought to be a fairy ring was moved to a grotto which one Lady Mackworth was building in her grounds. As soon as the grotto, which had cost several thousand pounds, was finished, a hill fell over it one night during a terrible storm. An old man who had been an under-gardener on the estate commented: 'Iss indeed, and woe will fall on the Cymro or the Saeson that will dare to clear the earth away. I myself and other who was there, was hear [sic] the fairies laughing loud that night, after the storm has cleared away.'
The end of the world will be at hand when a third stone appears to join two standing in a field called Llettyn-gharad on Eurglawdd Farm in the parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn.
Published in 1976, this book looks at the folklore surrounding ancient sites in the British Isles. Here I was interested in recording all the mentions of Wales...
CHAPTER ONE - EARTH CURRENTS IN TRADITION AND THEORY
"Folk traditions are not conceieved in a vacuum, and if carefully considered they can, we believe, often be found to have a factual basis." Ideas discussed include ley lines, megalithic structures as carriers of power, their involvement with witchcraft and old traditions, etc, etc.
Some people are said to gotten shocks from stones. Eg. "John Williams, an experienced dowser from Abergavenny, has had similar experiences, in which he has been flung back from stones when placing his hands on them (for example, the Fish Stone near the Rvier Usk at Penmyarth - Powys: Brecknock - and one of the Harold stones at Trelleck, Gwent.) He has described the force involved as spiral-like, building up through the whole body and throwing the person touching it back from the stone."
Some were said to mark underground passages. Eg. "A passage is said to run several miles from Castell Coch (the Red Castle) by the River Taff to Cardiff Castle (South Glamorgan), and at the head of the passage in Castell Coch is a cavern containing an iron chest filled with treasure. This was said to belong to Ivor the Little, Lord of Morlais, whose stronghold the castle was in the twelfth century. He had three huge eagles chained to the chest to guard the treasure, and these fierce creatures have resisted all attempts to steal it."
While many folk traditions of buried treasure have been proven factually false, some did find validation. Eg. The ghost of a huge man dressed in gold was said to haunt a barrow called Bryn yr Ellyllon (Hill of the Goblins) at Mold. When the barrow was opened in 1833 a gold corselet or cape was found and is now at the British Museum. Other Welsh finds include a chest of gold in a cairn on Nerquis Mountain, Flintshire; gold chest at Cerrig y Drudion, Denbighshire; and three cauldrons of gold at Y Garn Coch near Ystradgynlais.
Discusses the folk tradition of standing stones representing petrified witches who overmilked cows. Eg. "In Wales, Y Fuwch Frech, the freckled cow, lived on Hiraethog Mountain near Cerrigydrudion. On being milked into a sieve by a witch, she drowned herself in Llyn Dau Ychen. A legend in the Welsh Iolo MS, with the title 'Y Fuwch Laethwen Lefrith' (The Milk-White Milch Cow), tells of another cow with bountiful supplies of milk, and she almost suffered the ultimate humility at the hands of the Welsh:
The milk-white milch cow gave enough of milk to every one who desired it; and however frequently milked, or by whatever number of persons, she was never found deficient. All persons who drank of her milk were healed of every illness; from being fools they became wise; and from being wicked, became happy. This cow went round the world and wherever she appeared, she filled with milk all the vessels that could be found, leaving calves behind her for all the wise and happy. It was from her that all the milch cows in the world were obtained. After traversing the island of Britain, for the benefit and blessing of country and kindred, she reached the Vale of Towy; where, tempted by her fine appearance and superior condition, the natives sought to kill and eat her; but just as they were proceeding to effect their purpose, she vanished from between their hands and was never seen again. A house still remains in the locality, called Y Fuwch Laethwen Lefrith."
CHAPTER TWO - STONES AND THEIR POWERS
Offerings were left at various stones, eg. "At midnight, when there was a full moon, maidens from the Swansea district used to leave cakes of barley-meal, honey, and milk on Arthur's Stone, which stands on Cefn-y-Bryn, Gower. They then crawled around the stone three times on hands and knees, hoping to see their sweethearts. If they appeared, their fidelity was proved. If not, then the girls knew that the boys did not intend to marry them."
Some stones were said to have healing powers, others helped with fertility. Some could be used for bad - eg. there was a cursing well at St. Elian, near Colwyn Bay, where stones marked with the initials of the victims [of a potential curse] were dropped into the water. Others for good - eg. at the underground dungeon at Oystermouth Castle, Gower, there was a large pillar called the Wishing Post. Young men and women who desired to find a sweetheart would walk around this stone nine times while making their wish, and would 'stick a pin in the pillar.' Still others could impact your mental wellbeing.
"There is a cromlech in Dyffryn woods (probably Tinkinswood chambered cairn) near St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) where it was considered unlucky to sleep on the 'three spirit nights' of May Day eve, St. John's eve (23 June), and Midwinter eve. Anyone ignoring this advice would be liable to die, go mad, or become a poet. The controlling spirits of this cromlech were thought to be those of the long-departed Druids, who would punish the wicked by beating them, and were particularly hard on drunkards.
One such who spent a night at this site said that they 'beat him first, and then whirled him up to the sky, from which he looked down and saw the moon and stars thousands of miles below him. The Druids held him suspended by his hair in the mid-heaven until the first peep of the day, and then let him drop down to the Dyffryn woods, where he was found in a great oak by farm labourers', according to the account in Folk-Lore and Folk-Stories of Wales by Marie Treveylan. It is interesting to note that this tale has echoes of some of the reported experiences of today's flying saucer contactees, who tell of flying around space and seeing the stars and the moon from the craft of the alien visitors.
Close by, near St. Lythans, the stones of St. Lythans chambered cairn were said to grant a whispered wish on Hallowe'en. Whether the wish must be for good or ill is not known, but the field was unprofitable and the local people said the land was cursed.
The moutain of Cader Idris in Gwynedd (Merionethshire) has a strange reputation. Somewhere on its summit is the rock seat of the giant Idris, and here too, anyone who stays the night will find death or madness, or become a genius. On the first night of a new year mysterious lights are said to be seen near the peak, and again this sounds similar to today's reports of flying saucers or UFOs.
A famous figure from Wales's past, half fact, half legend, is the great bard Taliesin. Tradition places his grave in the parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glen (Dyfed). The stone grave, known as Bedd Taliesin, is in the centre of a mound of earth surrounded by stone circles, and here too the tradition says that anyone who sleeps there for one night will become either a poet or an idiot."
CHAPTER THREE - 'A STRANGE AND MONSTROUS SERPENT...'
"Dragons or winged serpents were also a familiar sight in the woods around Penllyne Castle (South Glamorgan) in earlier days, according to nineteenth-century folklore. One old man remembered hearing in his boyhood that the winged serpents were very beautiful. They rested coiled up, and looked as if covered in jewels; some had sparkling crests. If disturbed, they glided to their hiding-places with outspread wings. They became extinct because they took poultry, and people killed them for it.
"An old woman related her memories of the winged serpents in Penmark Place (South Glamorgan), and they too were as notorious as foxes in the farmyards. Her grandfather had tried to kill one in the woods of Porthkerry Park; he and his companion were attacked when they wounded a winged serpent with gunshot, but after a fierce fight they killed it. She had seen its skin and feathers. Winged serpents were not peculiar to South Wales, stories about them being current in all the wilder parts of that country - Penmaenmawr, the Berwyns, Cader Idris, Plinlimmon, Radnor Forest, and Brecon Beacons."
Discussion of dragons being Medieval interpretation of UFOs. John de Hokelowe writing in 1405 about a sighting in Suffolk of a dragon that devoured many sheep. Baker's Chronicle (12th Century) talks of a 'fiery serpent' at Newcastle Emlyn in Dyfed. Some dragon killings are linked with ancient sites. Eg. Bedd yr Afanc (Afanc's Grave) near Brynberian, Dyfed, is said to mark where a dangerous monster was buried after being caught in a pool in the river.
CHAPTER FOUR - THE GIANT'S APRON AND THE DEVIL'S SPADE
The devil is said to have constructed Offa's Dyke, the earth bank and ditch which still runs most of the length of the Welsh / English border, though not precisely on the line of the present border. He completed this stupendous task in one night, using a plough pulled by a turkey and a gander.
Jack o' Kent, a Herefordshire giant, was playing peck and toss (pitch and toss) on the Sugar Loaf Mountain when he threw what become known as the Pecked Stone into a field at Trelleck (Gwent). This stone lay a short distance from three other tall menhirs (Harold's Stones) which were thrown by Jack at the same time and which still stand together in a field just outside the village.
"Another recurring theme is the pebble in the shoe, the pebble, however, being of huge proportions to our eyes. Arthur's Stone is a cromlech standing on Cefn Bryn common, Gower Peninsula (West Glamorgan), but to King Athur it was a pebble in his shoe, which irritated him when he was on his way to fight the Battle of Camlann. He threw it seven miles to its present position. Giantess Mol Walbee was not so strong, for when she found a stone in her shoe she only threw it three miles, into Llowes Churchyard (Powys). 'Mol Walbee's Stone' is in fact an early Christian wheel-cross."
Shovelful of earth theme. Eg. The most-quoted story tells how a Welsh giant was planning to dam the River Severn and flood Shrewsbury (Salop), and was on his way with a load of earth when he met a cobbler who thwarted his plan in the usual cunning wag. The soil the giant threw down became the Wrekin, and Welock Edge (or, in another version, Ercall Hill) was formed where he scraped his boots.
The story of Cnwn Coedfoel, a mound near Llandyssul (Dyfed). The devil was out to drown the people of Pentre-Cwrt by damming the River Teivy with earth, but as he was carrying his shovelful he met a cobbler at Llandyssul, two miles from Pentre-Cwrt, who showed him his large bundle of old shoes as evidence of the enormous distance to the river. This discouraged the Devil, who threw down his load. Other stories involve giantesses carrying things in their aprons, eg. the passage grave Barclodiad y Gawres on Anglesey.
People who turn into stones: Eg. winnowing: three stones formerly on Moelfre Hill, Dwygyfylchi, Gwynedd, representing three women dressed in red, white, and blue gowns - the stones were a dull red, white, and a slate colour - who worked on a Sunday morning despite the protestations of their neighbours. A man who stole the church bible (or bells in some versions) was turned to stone as he carried it away on his back, and he must stand there forever as the Robber's Stone (Carreg y Lleider) near Llandyfrydog on Anglesey.
The Bords ask if these stories could be folk memory of deliberate landscaping events, rather than the usual explanation of flooding and erosion.
CHAPTER FIVE - CHURCHES MOVED BY NIGHT
At Ysbyty Cyngyn near Aberystwyth (Dyfed) the church is in a circular churchyard, and several megaliths, probably the remains of a stone circle, can be seen in the wall surrounding it. The stones are too massive for it to be sensibly suggested that they were moved there from elsewhere when the churchyard wall was built. This is the only example we know of where a church definitely appears to have been built within a stone circle. It is interesting to note that when a cross-shaped building is added to a circular site, the resulting shape is that of the wheel-cross which is a sun symbol.
Another example of a pagan sacred site blended with a Christian church is also in Wales, at LlanfairPG (Anglesey) where a menhir was found beneath the puplit of the church.
Church siting traditions in Wales:
Dyfed: St David's church, Llanddewi Brefi (Cardigan), was to have been built in a field at Godregarth Farm, a mile away from the village, buy a 'Spirit' pulled down the day's work each night, and carried the stones to the spot where the church now stands.
Penbryn church (Cardigan) should have been built at Penlon Moch, near Sarnau, but the materials were removed 'by invisible hands' to the present church site. There is a smiliar tradition converning Bettws Ifan (Cardigan). The parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn (Llanfihangel church of Michael) is about a mile from the farmhour named Glanfread or Glanfread-fawr, which site was originally intended for the church. But each night the day's sowrk was destroyed, and a voice was heard saying 'Glanfread-fawr sy fod fan hyn, Llanfihangel yn Genau'r Glyn.' (Glanfread-fawr is to be herein, Llanfihangel at Genau'r Glyn.) So the church was built at Genau'r Glyn, and a farm at Glanfread-fawr.
The parish church at Llanddeusant (Carmarthen) was to have been built at Twynllanan in the centre of the parish, but by night the stones were removed to the church's present site. Work was slow at the building of Llanwinio church (Carmarthen), for each day's work 'fell down in the night'. The builder threw his hammer into the air (in exasperation, or divination?) and the church was built on the spot where it fell, without further hindrance.
A field called Parc y Fonwent was chosen as the site for Llangan church (Carmarthen), but the stones were carried by night to a new site, accompanied by a voice saying, 'Llangan, dyma'r fan' (Llangan, here is the spot).
The original site for Maros church (Carmarthen) was a field called Church Park near Pendine, not far west of where the church now stands. By night stones and mortar were removed to the new site by 'invisible spirits'. Also, at Llangeler (Carmarthen), each day's work was carried from the chosen site, at Parc-y-Bwci (Goblin's Park), to the site where the church was finally built.
Powys: The original piece of land chosen for the erection of Llanbister church (Radnor) was close to the spot where the church was actually built. A historian of the county said in 1859 that 'The tradition that a supernatural being carried away in the night whatever was built of the church during the day, is still kept alive, because the warden claims in annual rent of 2s 6d. for the vacant and unconsecrated site of the originally intended church.' Again we find factual confirmation of a folk tradition.
Clwyd: Wrexham church (Denbigh) was to have been built on low ground at Bryn-y-Hennon, but the work was disturbed by night, and a voice was heard saying, 'Bryn-y-Grog' (Hill of the Cross), so the church was built there instead. A hilltop site near an ancient spring had been chosen for Capel Garmon church (Denbigh), but it was moved downhill.
Corwen church (Merioneth) was repeatedly demolished during construction until the builders restarted work beside Carreg y Big yn y Fach Rewlyd (the Pointed Stone in Icy Nook). Work was started on a church between Cwynwyd and Corwen, where Cynwyd Bridge crosses the River Dee, But the stones were removed by the Devil each night. A wise man told the masons that they should build their church where a white stag would first be seen when they were out hunting. They did this, and Llangar church (Merioneth) or the Church of the White Stag (Llan-garw-gwyn) was built on the spot.
Gwynedd: The stones for Llanllechid church near Bangor were carried away from a field called Cae'r Capel.
CHAPTER SIX - RESTLESS STONES AND ANCIENT RITUALS
The Dancing Stones of Stackpole (Dyfed) are three standing stones about one mile apart - Sampson Cross, Harold's Stone, and another at Stackpole Warren. Sometimes they get together and go down to Saxon's (or Sais's) Ford to dance the hay (a country-dance), and any witnesses are assured of good luck. Similarly, on Midsummer Eve, the stones of St Lythans chambered cairn near St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) whirl around three times and curtsey.
There was once a rocking stone called Cryd Tudno (Tudno's Cradle) on Great Orme's Head (Gwynedd), and mothers who wanted to help their children learn to walk would every week get them to crawl three times around the stone. Also in Wales, girls would crawl three times around Arthur's Stone in Gower, in order to test their sweetheart's fidelity.
Two stones with unusual stories can be found about a mile from the Green Gorge on Penmaenmawr (Gwynedd). The story of the Deity Stone, which would bend its head and hit anyone blaspheming in its presence, is told here by Marie Trevelyan in Folk-Lore and Folk-Stories of Wales:
A man from South Wales played cards with some friends beside this stone on a Sunday, and when the men returned to the village with cuts about their heads, the people knew the Deity Stone had smitten them, though they would not admit having had punishment. A notorious blasphemer who came from Merionethshire laughed to scorn the story of this stone. One night he went to the Druids' Circle alone and at a very late hour, and shouted words of blasphemy so lound that his voice could be heard ringing down the Green Gorge. People shuddered as they heard him. The sounds ceased, and the listeners ran away in sheer fright. In the morning the blasphemer's corpse was found in a terribly battered condition at the base of the Deity Stone.
Opposite the Deity Stone is the Stone of Sacrifice, which has a depression on top large enough to hold a baby. It was believed that good luck could be obtained for any baby placed there for a few minutes before it was one month old.
Offerings of white or quartz stones were made at holy wells, such as Ffynnon Degla (Cwlyd) and Ffynnon Gwenfaen (Anglesey), and in both Wales and Scotland charms of quartz and rock crystals were used to give the water of healing wells a magical potency. Although this practice at first glance appears to be mere superstition, it could well be sould based. (eg. vibrations)
CHAPTER SEVEN - FAIRIES, WITCHES, GHOSTS AND UFOS
Fairies - not the pretty winged kind of today. Sometimes believed to be the remnants of an earlier race of beings, pushed to the edges by humanity. "Burial mounds and hillforts were not the only ancient sites frequented by the fairies; they were also seen at certain stones, for example the Pentre Ifan cromlech (Dyfed), where they looked like 'little children in clothes like soldiers' clothes and with red caps'. Another Welsh cromlech associated with fairies is near the hamlet of St Nicholas (South Glamorgan) and was called Castle Correg by the local children. Again in Wales, a stone at Cynwyl Gaio had a bad reputation and was known locally as the Goblin Stone. A young man who slept under it in the seventeenth century was pinched, poked, and tweaked by a number of goblins, who vanished at first light.
Other traditions associating fairies with ancient stones may have resulted from the psychic effects produced by the earth currents. A story from Wales tells of a shepherd boy, lost in the mountains, who was led to a certain menhir by a merry blue-eyed old man. The old man tapped three times on the stone and lifted it up, revealing steps lit by a blue-white light. Down they went, and came to a wooded, fertile country, with a beautiful palace. The shepherd boy began a marvellous life among the 'fair-folk', and eventually married one of them. Later, he decided to return to the upper world and took his wife with him. They lived well, for they were rich, and had a son they called Taliesin, who became a famous bard. This story may have been a remnant of an ancient bardic tale. The wooded fertile country, where life is joyous and riches abound, to which an ancient sacred stone is the doorway, may symbolise the fructifying powers of the earth current which can be tapped at the ancient stones.
The ghostly dog seen on the island of Anglesey by a clergyman took the form of a large greyhound. It jumped against him and threw him from his horse as he passed by an 'artifical circle in the ground' (presumably of stones, to judge by what occurs later) between Amlwch village and St Elian church. The same thing happened on a second night; on the third the priest saw that the 'spirit' was chained. On being questioned, the 'spirit' revealed that it could not rest because it had, when in the flesh (presumably in human not animal form!) hidden a silver groat belonging to the church under a stone. Following the 'spirit's' directions, the priest found the groat and paid it to the church, whereupon the 'spirit' was released.
The next story also comes from Wales, and we quote it direct from Folk-Lore of West and Mid-Wales by Jonathan Ceredig Davies:
As Mr. David Walter, of Pembrokeshire, a religious man, and far from fear and supersition, was travelling by himself through a field called the Cot Moor, where there are two stones set up called the Devil's Nags, which are said to be haunted, he was suddenly seized and thrown over a hedge. He went there another day, taking with him for protection a strong fighting mastiff dog. When he had come near the Devil's Nags there appeared in his path the apparition of a dog more terrible than any he had ever seen. In vain he tried to set his mastiff on: the huge beast crouched, frightened by his master's feet and refused to attack the spectre. Whereupon his master boldly stooped to pick up a stone thinking that would frighten the evil dog; but suddenly a circle of fire surrounded it, which lighting up the gloom, showed the white snip down to the dog's nose, and his grinning teeth, and white tail. He then knew it was one of the infernal dogs of hell.
CHAPTER EIGHT - THE FATE OF THE DESECRATORS
On Pentyrch, a hill above Llangybi, a large stone, immovable despite the concerted efforts of men and horses on many occasions, was moved at the touch of a little girl's hand. She found a hoard of coins beneth the stone, and at the time her family was desperately poor. It had long been rumoured that treasure was hidden there, but undeserving seekers had no luck finding it.
A heap of stones on the mountain Cefn Carn Cavall (or Cabal), near Builth (Powys), contains one magic stone which bears the footprint of King Arthur's dog Cabal, and on one who takes this stone away can keep it for longer than a day and night, because it returns to the heap. On the island of Anglesey, Maen Morddwyd, or the Thigh Stone, always returned the following night, however far away it was taken.
A cromlech was being dismantled in Parc-y-Bigwrn field near Llanboidy (Dyfed), and two men who were handling the stones 'became filled with awe' (could this be another way of saying that they sensed the power in the stones? It would seem that the current was very strong at this site, judging by what happened next). As six horses drew the stones away, 'the road was suddenly rent asunder in a supernatural manner'.
Another earth-shattering event took place in Wales when a stone was moved at Banwan Bryddin near Neath (West Glamorgan), where an inscribed stone pillar standing on a tumulus locally thought to be a fairy ring was moved to a grotto which one Lady Mackworth was building in her grounds. As soon as the grotto, which had cost several thousand pounds, was finished, a hill fell over it one night during a terrible storm. An old man who had been an under-gardener on the estate commented: 'Iss indeed, and woe will fall on the Cymro or the Saeson that will dare to clear the earth away. I myself and other who was there, was hear [sic] the fairies laughing loud that night, after the storm has cleared away.'
The end of the world will be at hand when a third stone appears to join two standing in a field called Llettyn-gharad on Eurglawdd Farm in the parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn.
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